Author Topic: Rear End Maintenance Tips ( ST1100 )  (Read 14032 times)

Offline KoTAOW

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Rear End Maintenance Tips ( ST1100 )
« on: February 02, 2008, 06:33:27 PM »
Submitted by John Parker, STOC #124:
Original info here:

ST1100 Rear End Maintenance Tips

There are several checks and maintenance procedures in the area of the rear wheel that should be performed regularly for your ST to give you all of the maximum trouble free miles it is capable of. A convenient time to do this is when the rear wheel is off for a tire change. Take a few extra minutes to do the following and help keep your ST in top shape for many trouble free miles. Use the Service Manual for a detailed step-by-step procedure to items below.While the rear is off make sure to inspect the two o-rings. One is easy to see on the splined part of the final drive flange (the 5 stud thingie that slides into the damper assy in the wheel). The other o-ring is under the final drive flange on the rear wheel hub itself. This o-ring is sometimes overlooked and often times not readily visible, as it may have turned to dust) it is a 61X2 mm part # 91302-MA6-003. Also check the condition of the rubber dampers and their respective metal inserts. There are 5 of these, and are accessed by removing the damper holder plate (5 socket head screws) Look for slop and also check for any wear marks on the wheel hub itself. Replace all of these dampers if excess slop or wear on the hub is found.

Upon assembly, lube the thrust washer under the final driven flange, the flange mating surface and the hub mating surface, and the splines on the outside of the final driven flange with molybdenum disulfide paste. Then, with the final driven flange inserted into the damper assy in the wheel (and new Excedra mounted and balanced ), apply NLGI #2 grease to the driven flange splines and ring gear engagement splines (final gear case). While you're at it, check the rear brake pads for wear and contamination, clean up any corrosion and road gunk on the caliper, rear axel, rear caliper stopper pin bolt, caliper slide pins, and piston. Check the caliper piston for brake fluid leakage and R&R the piston and seal (see: for more info) as needed. Then LIGHTLY lube the axel, rear caliper stopper pin bolt, and caliper slide pins with anti-sieze and assemble. Insure that the caliper slides freely on its pins and there is no binding.

You may as well take a look at the rear shock for tightness of the mounting bolts and any leakage. While you're there, check the exhaust system for tightness and obvious damage.


Thank You for your contribution John Parker, STOC #124
« Last Edit: April 13, 2012, 06:45:28 AM by KoTAOW »

Offline KoTAOW

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Re: ST1100 Rear End Maintenance Tips
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2008, 06:52:15 PM »
Submitted by John OoSTerhuis, STOC #1058


Rear End Maintenance Tips ( ST1100 ) - continued

ST1100 non-ABS rear wheel with the rubber dampers removed. If the dampers fall out instead of having to be pried out, it's time to replace them. Buy new aluminum inserts then as well.

The damper at 4 o'clock is reversed to show the insert mounting hole. If the dampers still fit the recesses in the wheel tightly, but the holes in the inserts show elongation, you can reverse the inserts. Coat the dampers lightly with silicone spray. Dampers PN: 41241-MT3-003, inserts: 41242-MR5-000

Showing installed dampers/inserts; damper holder plate; socket bolts; and 3/8in dr, in-lbs torque wrench. Also the thrust washer and O-ring (PN: 91302-MA6-003, O-RING (61X2)).

Damper plate installed (line up the plate/wheel arrows IAW the manual), 6mm socket head bolts to 168 in lbs. O-ring installed. Moly 60 paste (PN: 08734-0001 / PASTE (MOLY 60)) applied with utility brush.

Final driven flange and its O-ring (91358-MG9-003, O-RING (50.5X3.5)), plus the important thrust washer.

Thrust washer molied and installed under the final driven flange. Splines molied and o-ring installed. The flange 'fingers' should fit very snuggly. If not, it might be time to replace the inserts.

Plastic shroud ('Dust Guard Plate') removed for cleaning. Old moly 60 cleaned off the female splines. 94K on this rear end.

The final drive and the O-ring (PN: 91356-MG9-003, O-RING (39.5X2.4)) which fits in the groove on the OD of the 'O-ring Guide.'

Inserting the distance collar after molying the final drive female splines and installing the o-ring on the O-ring Guide. Protective gloves are a good idea as moly 60 is hard to get off your hands (and face... and clothes... etc.).

Filling the inner lip of the wheel bearing seal with waterproof grease - to keep water from getting by the side collar (spacer).

Wood shim boards under the tire help a lot during the wheel install. The wheel bearing seal has had waterproof grease applied to its inside lip and the spacer then installed. Note: when removing the wheel, always use the hole in the bottom on the drive's shroud to pry the wheel off WITH the driven flange, IAW the manual.

Spread the brake pads if necessary, so the caliper goes on the rotor easily. Insert the axle and start the caliper stopper bolt to position the caliper bracket.

The axle has been inserted all the way and a 17mm Allen in the end is ready to hold the axle while the axle nut is torqued, if necessary. 14mm wrench is ready to tighten the caliper stopper bolt.

The axle nut (27mm, all yrs/models) is torqued to 80 ft lbs. Hold the other end from turning with a 17mm allen or hex-bit if necessary. Then tighten the pinch bolt to 240 in lbs and the caliper stopper bolt to 51 ft lbs (I do this one by calibrated elbow). Contrary to the Service Manual, the stopper bolt does not have to be replaced each time. Pump up the rear brake and then spin the wheel and apply/release the brake to check brake action. You may hear a bit of slight pad drag which is normal. If you've installed new pads, check again after the pads 'bed in.'


Rear End Brake Shoe Maintenance Tips ( ST1100 )

Old and new OEM rear brake pads for non-ABS ST1100s. The rear caliper's pads are much thicker than those for the front calipers. My old pads weren't worn past the wear indicator grooves but were replaced anyway. [I got tired of waiting for them to wear out]

Non-ABS ST1100s have two piston, single action, rear brake calipers. It's much easier to clean and work on the caliper if remounted as shown after the wheel has been pulled. Note the two pins on which the caliper slides laterally - one on the bracket and the other on the caliper body. Gently pull the caliper body off the bracket, being careful not to damage the pin boots. Clean and lube the pins, bores, and inside of the rubber boots with high-temp silicone grease.

Fix one piston similar to what is shown and pump the brake pedal just enough to push the other piston out ~1/8 in. Clean with toothbrush and degreaser (like SimpleGreen). If necessary, follow with a strip of fine (white) 3M pad in a 'shoe-shine' motion around the circumference. Compress the cleaned piston (the point at which this pic was taken) and extend/clean the other.

Injecting high-temp silicone grease inside the caliper pin boot on the caliper body. Note the caliper stopper bolt cleaned and threads protected with anti-seize paste.

Injecting high-temp silicone grease inside the caliper pin boot on the caliper bracket. Note the indestructable, genuine Army issue M-16 cleaning brush propping the bracket for the picture. Mine's always on-board my ST.

Caliper body remounted to its bracket and the sliding pins' boots seated. The brake pads retaining pin threads have new anti-seize and it's been partially inserted.

Another view. Both pistons compressed to accept new brake pads. Check operation by pressing slightly on the the brake pedal and observe both piston extend equally, and then retract when the pedal's released. It takes very little movement to engage/release braking action on the ST11.

New brake pads installed. The vernier caliper verifies that the new pads will clear the rotor when reinstalling the rear wheel. Note: 5mm hex-bit socket in the pad retaining pin.

Torque the pads retaining pin to 156 in lbs.

Finish the new brake pads install with the pad pin plug. Lube the threads with waterproof grease. I recommend the brand shown. I use it on steering and swingarm bearings, axles, and wheel bearing seal lips. Any good bicycle shop should carry this fine grease.


Thank You again for your contribution John OoSTerhuis, STOC #1058
« Last Edit: February 25, 2013, 05:44:15 PM by John OoSTerhuis »