Author Topic: Pan Euro passing switch installation. ( ST1100 )  (Read 2822 times)

Offline KoTAOW

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Pan Euro passing switch installation. ( ST1100 )
« on: March 27, 2009, 09:12:51 PM »
Original article written by Kim Loeng, STOC #3073.

http://www.st1100.org/howto.cgi?job=HOWLONE&id=63

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Pan Euro passing switch installation

Unfortunately, you have to buy a whole Euro left-hand assembly,
    take the passing switch out of it, and install the passing switch
    in the left-hand assembly on your ST. It s a pricey way to get it.
    I managed to find one and order it from a wrecker in England,
    still it cost me $40 delivered vs. $70-$80 plus shipping for a new
    one.
    The part number for the Euro left-hand assembly is: 35020-MAJ-G40

    If you decide to do it, here are the instructions:


    It is actually very easy to do if you can get your hands on a new
    or used left hand assembly off a Pan Euro ST1100.

    1. Remove the two screws holding it together and split the Pan
       Euro assembly. You will see one screw holding the metal base of
       the passing switch and one end of the high/low beam switch,
       remove this screw and carefully pull the passing switch sub-
       assembly out.

    2. Remove the screw that fastens the small bent metal piece acting
    as a strain relief for the wiring harness coming into the shell,
    strip enough of the wiring sleeve to expose a total of about 4
    inches of the two wires coming from the passing switch and cut the
    wires. Strip 1/8" of the the insulation off the cut ends of these
    two wires, twist the exposed copper strands tight, and use a fine
    tip soldering iron and flux core solder (such as used for
    electronic soldering) to tin these exposed ends.

    2.  You will need a helping set of hands to do the soldering, but
        you can install the passing switch on your bike without
        taking the left hand assembly completely off.
        Remove the two screws holding it together, split the left
        hand assembly on your ST and rotate each half towards the
        front of the bike so that they are off the bar; pay attention
        to how the choke cable is attached so you know how it goes
        back together.

    3.  Remove and save the screw holding your high/low switch in the
        top half shell and pull the switch out.

    4.  Remove and discard the blank plate where the passing
        switch goes.

    5.  Use a small flat blade screwdriver to scrape the black coating
        from the solder spots that attach the existing two blue and
        blue/white wires to the high/low switch.

    7. Using the fine tip soldering iron and flux core solder, and
    being careful of the plastic switch housing, adjacent wires, etc.,
    solder one each (they are interchangeable) of the passing switch
    wires to one each of the exposed solder spots on the high/low
    switch. Do NOT solder a lead to the solid white wire position on
    the high/low switch.

    6.  Put the high/low switch back in, twist and route the passing
        switch wires in the shell so they do not interfere, install
        the passing switch and fasten the high/low and passing
        switches with the one screw you saved.

    7.  Turn your ignition on, make sure the high/low switch is on
        low, and try the passing switch. The high beam should light up
        as you keep the passing switch depressed. If it does, button
        everything back up and you are done.

    I hope this is clear, if not let me know.

    If you prefer not to go through the above and having to locate
    the part, just push your start button when the bike is running.
    It turns off, and therefore flashes, whatever beam is on at the
    time, and reportedly does not activate the starter when the bike
    is running.

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Submitted by: T. Melnik