Author Topic: Swingarm R&R ( ST1100 )  (Read 6360 times)

Offline KoTAOW

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Swingarm R&R ( ST1100 )
« on: April 04, 2009, 12:01:48 PM »
Original article can be viewed here:

Submitted by Mike Martin.


ST1100 Swingarm R&R

Thanks to Mark Frost for this write-up, and to John Oosterhuis, who added comments in brackets. One point I'd like to add is that you should take note of the paint marks on the swing-arm pivot fasteners before disassembly. After everything is reassembled, they should line up again just like they did when you started. Also, there are some PHOTOS HERE which might be of help. Although these pictures were taken for an alternator upgrade project, photo numbers WW09, WW14, WW17, WW18, WW21 and WW89 are pertinent to the swingarm.

A major side benefit to the alternator upgrade is the opportunity to go through the bike's drivetrain and bring it back to spec. I just completed this on my '00 ABS, and it tightened the back half of the bike up nicely.

The work isn't hard, and the only special tools required are a torque wrench, the Honda swingarm locknut wrench (or a homemade cut-down socket), and a 17mm Allen, preferably socket-driven. Just about anybody who's changed a water pump in a car can tackle this job.

Some tips:

- - Soak the four final drive nuts with something like WD40 or a penetrating oil before you remove them. They're exposed fasteners, and the threads on mine were slightly corroded.

John O: [Mine weren't corroded and I didn't use anything on them but they sure were hard to loosen; wonder if I should have used some locktite as the threads seemed to have some old stuff on them... couldn't hurt.]

- - Have the following greases handy: Honda Moly Paste-60 [PN: 08734-0001], a 3% moly-fortified NLGI #2 bearing grease, a standard NLGI #2 wheel bearing grease, and a waterproof grease (optional). [For waterproof grease I used Phil Wood waterproof bicycle bearing grease, the same stuff I used on my steering stem roller bearings]

Buy the best brands you can find, as you won't be doing this again for a while. You'll also need three or four cans of spray parts cleaner, such as PJ1.

John O: [I used Barsol high flash-point solvent out of a can, rags and a toothbrush. Wear vinyl or rubber gloves when working with the moly - it gets on EVERYTHING and doesn't come off skin easily. It probably isn't a good idea to get any kind of high strength parts cleaner on your skin either.]

- - The Moly 60 is used at the main splined driveshaft [transmission Mainshaft] leaving the engine [and the mating female socket splines in the Universal Joint on the end of the Drive Shaft], the shock mounting bolts, underneath the rear wheel's final driven flange / hub, and the flange splines themselves. [and the Thrust Washer]

- - The 3% moly-fortified is used on the driveshaft splines mating with the driveshaft connecting piece [Driveshaft Joint], and also goes down in the final drive cup [Pinion Joint] that the connecting piece sits in.

- - The swingarm bearings / cup races and rear axle take a slathering of standard bearing grease, and waterproof grease goes in the waisted section of the rear wheel spacer when you re-mount the wheel. [Fill the inside lip of the wheel bearing seal.]

- - Before you do any re-greasing, clean all parts *thoroughly* with the spray cleaner. Other than the Moly Paste-60, you don't know whether the Honda greases that are already there will be compatible with the new stuff you're putting in, and you'll avoid the dreaded "munge" that can happen by mixing greases of different base stocks. If munge strikes your drivetrain, you'll be wishing it hadn't.

- - The way you apply the grease is important [Cheap little thow-away utility brushes from the hardware store work very well], particularly in the final drive cup [Pinion Joint] that holds the driveshaft connecting piece [Driveshaft Joint]. There are two holes [opposite sides of the Pinion Joint Nut] at the base of the cup that go straight through to the inside of the final drive [Final Gear Case], and these MUST be covered with enough 3% to prevent final drive fluid from leaking forward into the cup. If you don't lay enough grease down, you run the risk of a low-fluid condition developing in the final drive itself, which might cause damage. Be sure to wipe the [inner] top part [above the female splines] of the ... [Pinion Joint] where the connecting piece oil seal [Driveshaft Joint Oil Seal] seats on re-assembly, so that if fluid does get into the cup, the seal will prevent it from draining into the swingarm itself.

John O: [Note: the Service Manual calls for a new Driveshaft Joint Oil Seal and Driveshaft Cap O-ring. I didn't replace them... they looked fine. I greased the outer edge of the Oil Seal with grease (waterproof) as called for. However, if the Driveshaft Cap shows wear from contact with the Pinion Joint Nut, it can be tapped out and reversed (it's pretty thick). All three parts can be replaced if desired.]

[Note: Pulling the Swingarm -- after the Final Gear Case Assembly has been removed and the Driveshaft Joint separated, pull the Driveshaft fully to the rear so its Universal Joint disengages from the transmission Mainshaft. Only then can the Swingarm be easily removed.]

[Note: Reinstalling the Swingarm -- the manual calls for installing the Right Pivot Bolt before installing the Swingarm. Tip: If you have an assistant - one of you installs the Swingarm and pushes the Driveshaft forward to seat its U-joint onto the tranmission Mainshaft; THEN the other installs both Pivot Bolts, carefully aligning them with the bearings' matching recesses.]

[Tip: Lubricate the inside lip of the Swingarm's Rubber Boot with silicone grease before installing; this will greatly ease reseating of the boot onto it's boss on the transmission case. If necessary, grab the boot's tabs with a needlenose pliers (or hemostat) after both Swingarm Pivot Bolts are installed, and gently tug it on so it's fully seated. Double check this - it's very important that nothing gets into the swingarm and damages the driveshaft assembly.]

[Note: the Final Gear Case can be removed from the swingarm without draining the final gear oil, but it makes it much easier to clean and re-moly if it's drained]

[When the rear wheel is R&R'd, the 3 o-rings should be replaced]

- - Mount the rear wheel fully-torqued BEFORE you tighten the four final drive fasteners.

John O: [Tighten the Rear Axle Nut first (hold with a 17mm allen in the other end of the axle if necessary), then the Rear Axle Pinch Bolt, Caliper Stopper Pin Bolt, and finally the Final Gear Case Mounting Nuts]

[Note: don't reinstall the fuel tank until you have the Final Gear Case Mounting Bolts torqued... you'll need the access that provides]

This will properly align the male flange splines with the female final drive splines, and prevent unnecessary wear. Other than putting your fender piece back on, this is actually the last step you'll do.

Anyone with questions just holler.

Mark Frost STOC #1162 San Diego, CA '00 ABS

2008 M. E. Martin, all rights reserved