Author Topic: Xtralight HID H4 Bi-Xenon conversion kit install ( ST1300 )  (Read 7966 times)

Offline KoTAOW

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Xtralight HID H4 Bi-Xenon conversion kit install ( ST1300 )
« on: April 08, 2009, 10:41:04 AM »
Original web page here:

Some pictures on original web page include additional overlayed text detail that could not be duplicated here..

Submitted by Joe Zulaski, STOC #929


Xtralight HID H4 Bi-Xenon conversion kit install - ST1300

Part 1

In February of 2008, another member of the ST1300 owners club pointed out a fairly new HID kit that was somewhat unique in that it was entirely digital with a resistor and igniter that was combined into one very compact unit.

Many benefits were claimed by the XtraLight company which distributes these lights and I became intrigued by the kit.  They claimed that by virtue of the resistor/igniter being digital, 30% longer life was achieved plus the color/temp was more stable.  One big selling point was how small the resistor/igniter unit was compared to any other kits on the market.  Some equaled it in the small size but none were smaller.

I searched around for feedback on the kits and found no one who had tried them on a bike.  I had also always wanted to test out one of the Hi/Lo capsules that I had seen advertised but, after some bad reviews from other riders (including my buddy, Dale "Warchild" Wilson), I was a bit hesitant.

So, I thought I would see if I could get some interest generated between the varous ST Owner forums to see if we could get a group buy setup with XtraLight.

It only took about 5 days to get the necessary 35 orders and I contacted XtraLight and setup the group buy.  Basically, it saved us $199 if we were ordering the Bi-xenon H4 4300K Hi/Lo HID conversion kit.  Some riders opted to get just one normal H4 HID Low beam conversion kit and still others went with H7's for other bikes.

The company was taken a little bit by surprise as at the last minute, I shared the group buy info with the Long Distance Rider list ( because I thought some guys there might be interested.  Apparently, there were some riders who were interested as one XtraLight sales guy said they suddenly got many more than 40 orders (more like 80).

So, some kits were delayed while awaiting back ordered parts, etc.

My 2 kits arrived and I started my installation project on March 1st, 2008.  You can see just how compact the resistor/igniter unit is below when compared to a Budweiser can (a must have during installation BTW ;-).

IMPORTANT NOTE:  Before modifying anything with the kit, test all the components to make sure everything is working!

Installation Instructions:

1. Preparing the kit.

Because Honda has their own proprietary version of the H4 bulb, we have found that most HID conversion kits for H4's require an H4 conversion shim.  I got mine from California Sport Touring (

Now, you want to separate the capsule from it's base.  This is easily done but be careful not to touch the glass of the capsule as oil from your hands can cause damage to the capsule upon ignition.  The directions say if you do touch it, to clean it off carefully with alcohol and a rag.

Grab the metal shield with one hand and the base with your other hand and gently twist them counter-clockwise,  The shield will turn a little bit and then you can gently pull the shield up over the capsule.  Be careful not to damage the capsule while doing this.

In order to get the shim to fit over the base of the HID capsule, I had to cut part of the base and the two bottom tabs.  The shim's tabs then replace and "move" the tabs on the capsule base. 

See the pics below:

Cut the two bottom tabs off the base.  Also cut along the etched line with a hack saw or jigsaw but be careful not to cut through the bottom lip of the base.  You need that lip.   Then I cut horizontally along the lip and into the area etched to remove that flat area.  I used a Dremel tool with a sanding attachment to smooth the edges and to get rid of any extra plastic not yet removed.  See below for a look at the finished product.

Repeat the same procedure with the other capsule and base using the other shim.

Now, we need to solder (or crimp) two electrical connector pins to the black and red wires for the power connector plugs (provided but not wired up). 

See the picture below.

After you have soldered the pins to the wires, they need to be gently inserted into the female plug and pressed into place.  You will feel a "click" when they snap into the correct location.  I would also suggest them sealing the two holes that the wires are pressed into with some hot glue to help secure the wires and pins and to help waterproof the plug from that end.

While test fitting the female and male plugs together, I noticed that my kit did not have matching plugs.  The male end had two channels or "key" slots whereas the female only had one ridge or "key".  Rather than contacting XtraLight and waiting for them to send me replacement female plugs that would fit correctly, I decided to just use my hot soldering iron and melt a third slot in-between the other two slots.  This enabled the two plugs to fit together.  I reasoned that since the male plug already had a waterproof rubber seal, it would still be waterproof.  See the picture below of the male plug.  See the two slots along the top?

Now compare that to the female plug with the one ridge inside the plug.  Somebody goofed at XtraLight.

Here is the modified male plug.  Not real pretty but it works.

Here are the two plugs connected.  Repeat this process to the other plugs and pins.

Now you are ready to disassemble your bike's nose cone.  I chose a short-cut of sorts and did not remove the two Tupperware large side panels.

2. Disassembly of the ST1300's Nose Cone area.

First, you must remove your windshield assembly and the top part of the dash. 

See below.

Now, I chose to only remove the nose cone area and tilt it forward.  Normally, to do that, you must first also remove the two large side tupperware panels.  It is probably easier in the long run to do that but, this worked for me.  First, you must remove your mirror assemblies and two bolts that hold the side tupperware to the nose cone.  You must also remove the inner cowling pieces (inside your wheel wells).

Here is another angle showing the nose cone tipped forward to give you access to the back of the headlights.

Now you can see and access the back side of the headlights.  Start removing the two H4 bulbs.

This was tough to do as my power plug on the back of the H4 just did not want to pull free easily.  I ended up first pulling the rubber cover up off the lip around the back of the headlight and then disconnecting the wire clip which held the H4 Halogen bulb in the headlight.  This was not the recommended method.  If you can unplug the power plug from the bulb first, it is easier. 

Now, you want to take the rubber cover for the back of the headlight and carefully slip the HID capsule into it.  Be gentle and remember not to touch the glass of the capsule.  It should slide into the rubber cover without too much trouble.

Here is a picture of the separated capsule and its base with shield.  You can also see a shim has been placed over the base and can see just how much different the tab placement is when compared with the shim. 

Take the capsule base with the metal shield and H4 shim and carefully drop it into the headlight - aligning the H4 shim's tabs correctly in the tab spaces on the back of the headlight. 

See below.

Now, very carefully fit the capsule itself with the rubber cover down into the HID shield assembly.  Align the thin little wire on the outside of the glass capsule with the slot cutout in the base.  Once the capsule is inserted, gently twist the capsule clockwise until it is locked into the shield assembly.

You can now press the rubber cover down onto the back of the headlight where it used to be.  Make sure that this seals well as it is what keeps water from getting into the headlight.

Now, repeat this process on the other side.

Now you need to decide where you want to mount your resistor/igniter boxes.  I chose to mount them on top of the windshield motor assembly using the two brackets provided in the kit. Below, you can see how the wiring is supposed to be connected together in approximately the same layout as the wiring diagram from XtraLight's web page.

We've got the capsules installed and now we need to install the resistor/igniter boxes and then route the wires and connect them properly.  Below is the mounting bracket and parts for mounting the resistor/igniter.

Assemble them as shown below.

Now, decide where you want to place them.  You can see below where I chose the finished locations.  Note how I routed the wiring and zip-tied them to the power windshield cable channels.  I figured that this would keep the wires out of harms way.  Also, when tightening down the resistor/igniters, I recommend making sure that they are not touching either the rails or the end of the windshield cable channels.  I also lowered the windshield all the way to see if any of the cables stuck out of the channel ends.  I found that they do but not much.

Finished wiring.

Now it is time to reassemble your bike.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2009, 11:49:38 AM by KoTAOW »

Offline KoTAOW

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Xtralight HID H4 Bi-Xenon conversion kit install - ST1300

Part 2

3. Reassembly of the ST1300's Nose Cone area.

Before I actually started reassembling the bike, I checked all my wiring and clearances to try to see if anything would bind or hit anything else.  As best as I could see, I was ok.  But, I did notice that the two power plugs (one from the kit and the stock H4 plug) didn't fit together all the way.  There was a gap between them.  I didn't like the thought of water getting in there freely so, I decided to cover the gap with some black duct tape.

So, once you think you are ready, I suggest you test out your installation by turning on your lights and checking out if they work and if the High beams also work.  It would be very frustrating if you got it all back together and they didn't work, wouldn't it?  ;-)

Eureka!  Success.  And, the high beams toggle on and off.  Now, proceed to reassemble the nose cone onto the bike.  Be very patient and careful.  You'll probably have to spread either side panel apart to get the nose back into place.  I found that alternating sides helped.  Just make slow progress until you can get the large hole in either mirror area over the round ring on the side of the dash.  This is where you need to get each side.  Once I had both sides in place, I reinstalled the mirrors first just using the top bolt to hold it in place.  Then, I installed the bottom bolts for each mirror.  Then, I installed two bolts in the mirror area that hold the side panels to the nose cone.

Now, you can reinstall the inner cowling panels and clip them in place with those funky little Honda plastic pin thingies.  I hate those things BTW.  When ready, reinstall the mirror housings over the mirrors and then the top dash panel. 

All along this process, test the lights to make sure you haven't accidentally unplugged something.  I found that I had and had to go back under the nose cone and find the plug that got disconnected.  Grrrrrr!

Once you have everything back together, it is time to aim your lights.

4. Testing/Alignment of the High and Low beams.

Let me quote my friend, Dale "Warchild" Wilson when he wrote up his HID installation procedures for the FJR:

"Perhaps the most important thing you can regarding this install is to ENSURE your lights are aimed correctly, especially the low beam.
To have these lights aimed incorrectly (particularly on small, 2-lane roads), is just inviting a disaster to occur.... they are THAT bright! Be socially responsible....
keep the sharp cutoff of the low-beam aimed *below* the driver's eye-level for all oncoming traffic.
    As far as HID high-beam is concerned, believe me, you're liable to cause an accident or get yourself arrested if you are running it in the presence of prevailing traffic."

Here are some pictures of my Low beam compared to the High beam light pattern.  I used a cork board setup in front of my ST as a target to aim the lights at.  Rule of thumb - aim the lights lower than you think you need so that you don't hinder on-coming traffic.

Low Beam Cutt-off

High Beam Diffused pattern

Here is what the headlights themselves look like head on.

Low Beam

High Beam

The two pictures directly above really don't show the dramatic difference between the two.  Wait till you ride at night, however.

Well, that's it.  I hope this helps you with your installations.

That's about it.  I may have to do some readjustments to the beam alignment if I get "feedback" from on-coming traffic but, experience from previous HID conversion projects suggest that the height I chose for the low beams is about right.


Joe Zulaski
STOC# 929
IBA# 228
« Last Edit: April 08, 2009, 11:48:13 AM by KoTAOW »