Author Topic: Honda Marine Analog Voltmeter Install ( ST1100 ) **  (Read 12722 times)

Offline KoTAOW

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Honda Marine Analog Voltmeter Install ( ST1100 ) **
« on: May 04, 2009, 03:48:12 PM »
Original article can be viewed here:
http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/guides/volt_meter.htm

Submitted by Mitch Louis, STOC 1384

Honda Marine Analog Voltmeter Install - ST1100

NOTE:  Left click on photos to go to Webshots for higher resolution.

I just completed the Honda Marine Voltmeter install. (P/N 37450-ZW5-000ZA VOLT KIT $16 to $22) I installed it where the headlight adjuster use to live. I NEVER used the adjuster and as one of the listers mentioned, its a logical place for it. I had a VFR and Its a great bike but prone to reg/rec failures. A voltmeter can tell you if the regulator is trending up or down. With that paranoia, I wanted a voltmeter on my ST.

The Honda voltmeter went in with no fuss, and used the existing wiring. I used a Dremel© tool to open the hole, a real life saver. Now is your excuse to get one!. The windshield came off, along with the cover for he instruments. I also took off the lt side of the faring for ease of access.
The adjuster knob unscrews and comes out easy. the head lite adjuster panel has two screws and it comes out. You have to jump the lite to power, since boats sometimes have the lights on with no motor running.

Hook up the voltmeter to power and put it all back together. I took the adjuster and ty wrapped to the metal support under the dash. It will still adjust the headlight, but now its not as convenient. Just reach up under the dash to do it.



Volt Meter
Fits: BF9.9-BF130
Black Face/Flat Lens
HONDA CODE (5977806)
Mfg.: Faria
White Face/Flat Lens
HONDA CODE (6075709)

« Last Edit: January 08, 2013, 10:52:11 AM by Tom Melnik »

Offline KoTAOW

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Re: Honda Marine Analog Voltmeter Install ( ST1100 ) **
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2009, 04:02:30 PM »
Comments by John Pearson:

My latest farkle, an analog voltmeter.  I've heard some stash the headlight knob behind the fairing, but I recently saw it installed on the r side of the tac.  I chose the latter because it looks like it belongs and it's available when needed, albeit not very often.  Cutting a new hole for the headlight knob was the easiest part of relocating the knob.  It was the first time I had had the dash apart.  The guage holder (behind the flat dashboard) has a hole already drilled which worked perfectly for the new knob cable.  I disconnected the cable from the headlight adjuster in order to thread it through the hole. The voltmeter was easy to install.  I took pos from the left running light for the light, ground to nearby frame and pos direct from the battery.   All in all, I'm pleased.





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Comments by Tom Melnik:

You could just tie the meter to the switched accessory wire without using a relay.

It's the yellow wire with blue stripe on the schematic and goes thru fuse H.




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Comments by WJ Bertrand:

Here's how I connected my voltmeter on my ST1100.  I put a miniature relay from Rat Shack under the left side cover.  In this case it was a Datel© meter, but the wiring would be the same for your analog one:

(Note: That red braided wire isn't connected to this relay, it just happened to be there)






I wouldn't use a switched accessory circuit if you want to see true battery voltage.  These circuits will generally run below battery voltage and are more affected when you turn stuff on and off.  If you want to use an accessory circuit for a reference, i.e. to see if something has changed, that'll work but I prefer to actually see what the state of my battery is and whether it's charging or discharging.  Connected to an accessory circuit you might be alarmed unnecessarily when it reads low.

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Comments by MD Turley:

I have a voltmeter exactly like it.  I moved my headlight adj to the right pocket cover

When the voltmeter was always on it did run down the battery in fairly short order (in a matter of days)
I then put it on a switch but of course I then just forgot to turn the switch off.
Now I have it on ignition switched... it reads 13.5 at 14.4 true volts... I like it that way because the needle points straight up.

And now the needle barely twitches with the new 40 amp alt.


More pics of the original voltmeter install here:
http://mdturley.smugmug.com/gallery/1365683_YjEVh#64418557_c6SwC





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Comments by George Catt:

The important info is in any _change_ of reading, so an absolute number isn't critcal. A reading of .6 or .7 diff between yesterday and today is more useful than the steady state number no matter what it may be. A consistent number is good, a falling number is bad. In the case of the 28amp alternator, a rising number is bad, too.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2013, 10:50:27 AM by Tom Melnik »

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