Author Topic: Final Drive Alignment and Torque Sequence ( ST1100 ) *  (Read 6938 times)

Offline KoTAOW

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Final Drive Alignment and Torque Sequence ( ST1100 ) *
« on: May 04, 2009, 04:40:01 PM »
Complete article can be viewed here:
http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/guides/final_drive_alignment.htm

Final Drive Alignment and Torque Sequence

The principle of this procedure applies to all shaft driven motorcycles of similar configuration. Virtually the same procedure is described in the Honda Service Manual under Final Gear Case Removal/Installation. The intent is to assure proper alignment of the rotational axis of the final drive to the swingarm axle clamp. Misalignment will cause excessive wear on the final drive components.

   1. Remove rear wheel.
   2. Loosen the 4 nuts, that fasten the final drive housing to the swingarm, 1 turn.
   3. Install the rear wheel completely leaving all fasteners loose.
   4. Torque the axle nut to 80 ft-lb.
   5. Torque the axle pinch bolt to 20 ft-lb.
   6. Torque the final gear case mounting nuts to 43 ft-lb.
   7. Torque the caliper stop bolt to 51 ft-lb.

On the ST1100 I find that I am not able to properly torque the inner 2 nuts with the wheel installed. So I torque the outside 2, then remove the wheel again and torque the inner ones. On some models, this won't be necessary. You'll notice that when you loosen the nuts, the final drive is free to move about the studs. That is why you must snug up everything else first. This procedure does not account for the rare occurrence of manufacturing defects in the swingarm or final drive housing. If you believe you have problems of this nature, a more in depth analysis is needed.

If you pull the fuel tank, the inner nuts are then quite easily accessible. Pulling the tank isn't a big deal; four small bolts, a couple of wires (watch out for the one on the left side that connects to the level sender) and the fuel line. Probably wouldn't take any longer to do than pulling the wheel again. I myself have intuitively been using this exact method for many years and when I got to the torquing of the inner bolts, I faced the same problem.

~~~

Comments by George Catt:

Some issues with the replacement of the final drive: best to install the rear wheel, fully torqued, _before_ tightening the 4 nuts on the pumpkin. Some feel that it's easier to get to those nuts with the fuel tank removed. Purpose of all this is to be sure of proper alignment between the driven and drive components in the rear wheel/pumpkin assembly.

Best method:

a. Install the pumpkin per normal but don't torque those 4 nuts.
b. Install and torque the rear wheel as if all else is complete.
c. Tighten and torque the nut you can reach on the pumpkin.
d. If necessary, remove the rear wheel and tighten the rest of the nuts on the pumpkin.
e. Reinstall the rear wheel.

Using assorted flex-head and extended ratchets, I'm able to tighten all 4 without removing the
rear wheel or tank so I know it can be done. Just takes some flexibility.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2013, 04:23:42 PM by Tom Melnik »