Author Topic: Cargo Lid - Left Side Modification ( ST1100 ) *  (Read 5026 times)

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Cargo Lid - Left Side Modification ( ST1100 ) *
« on: May 21, 2009, 07:54:54 AM »
Original article can be viewed here:
http://www.st1100.org/

written by Daniel Mercier, STOC 1361.

Cargo Lid, Left Side Modification

1) Ok, that left cover is not exactly helping at all. I came up with this. You can tear the soft cover off, it will remain close because of the thin aluminum secured underneath it. The only way to undo this is to buy new parts, If question should come up, I will do my best to answer them, my email is at the bottom of this document.

Figure #1:




2) You will find the following kind of interesting, Not only instruction but pictures to are available. Be advise also that it may not be completely waterproof. For the lock issue, I ordered from Honda the same lock as the right side (fig. 1). It came with it's own key (not coded the same as the ignition) but I was lucky enough, both keys use the same blank. So trust me I will make it work and use the same key, just need a little bit of time and money. I am convince that it can be done, we can do it for cars, why not for bikes.

3) First of all you will have to remove the seat, both covers under the seat, the cover over the air filter, the 2 covers on the side of the fairing that hide part of the engine and finally the left base, where the soft over is.

4)
I will refer to picture, as the number in it's name. For those who will require them. Approx. 1.2 meg in .jpg format.

5)  I started the project like this, first I needed to determine the exact form, I placed the soft cover, after removing it from the base, I placed it flat on an aluminum thin I used for the hard piece and draw all around it, including the 2 tabs on the front of the cover and guessed where the rear tab (only one ). Since the line was drawn on the outside of the soft cover, I cut the aluminum on the inside of the line, of course, one trick I did without noticing it, is that I waited to the end before filing the front of the piece because I wanted to adjust the exact length for the 2 front tab, so after filing the side's to fit inside the soft cover I attack the back of the cover, bending it at 90 degrees angle and left it long enough to adjust (just in case). Removed ridges on the inside of the soft cover, 2 two tabs on the front (fig. 4),the tab under the back (fig. 3) of the cover and the two small tab on the side (fig. 2). I also had to shorten the skirt all around the cover to make it's length equal so I can slip and close the cover, mainly because the length on the front of the cover is to long. I snuggly fit the aluminum piece on the bottom of the soft cover. Next drilled a couple of holes on the base where the bent parts of the cover should go (fig. 9A)(the lock that is) and filled it square (it's to the right of the lock hole). Once this hole is done you can start the front filing of the two tabs. Remove the 2 plastics pin that were holding the original soft cover. Made deeper the 2 hole so I don't have to bend the 2 tabs on the front of the hard cover. Be careful not top remove to much plastic, because if done so the front of the cover might be loose and make noise. This is the final result of the hard part after some filing, measuring and lot's of other stuff (fig. 1)
 

6)  Notice that I did remove the ridge on the inside, but also the big lump(A) of rubber on the back, the 2 little notch (B) on the side and the 2 tab on the front of the cover.

Figure #1


Figure #2


Figure #3


Figure #4


7) #3 and #4 Closer view of the front and back of the cover. Being ready to receive the hard part.

8)
 #5 - The new cover ready for final assembly.

9)
 #6, #6a, #6b, #6c, and #6d- This is the final result with the two pieces assembled, using the clips showed on 6b (Chrysler part number #06500787). Be careful when drilling the hole for the clip's not to do them on top of a surface and have not enough space for the bottom of the clip, check for clearance before drilling.

Figure #6


Figure #6a


Figure #6b


Figure #6c


Figure #6d


10) #7a - View from underneath front, notice that the 2 pin holding the original cover are gone to. and also the shape of the tip of the 2 front tab, the one with the notches needs it because it will not go all the way in.

Figure #7a:


11)  #7b - View of the top of left pocket, notice the square holes, had to make them deeper and a little bit wider to. To accommodate the hard cover (cover bottom). In order to make it close ok.


12)  #9a - The hole on the back made wider to, the hole for the lock, a bit to much to the left, could be more on the center, don't make my mistake. At this point I installed the lock and put the cover in place, put the key in and turn the lock, mark where the tab of the lock touch the bent part of the hard cover, the more precise is the mark the less chance there will be loose between the cover and the lock tab. If very fine adjustment is needed you can bend the tab on the lock, be careful not to break it. Also final bending of the hard cover could be needed if it touch or is hard to get closed. Mine slips right in with absolutely no efforts, the same as the right side.

Figure #9a:


Figure #9b:


Figure #9c:


13)  #9b and 9c - Lock and cover installed, view from the bottom.

Figure #9d:


Figure #9e:


Figure #9f:


14) #9d - Final result, minus some painting of the clips and the plate.

15) Need more info email me I will help at my best. mercdani@globetrotter.net
« Last Edit: December 29, 2012, 11:22:55 AM by Tom Melnik »