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Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation ( ST1100 ) *

Started by KoTAOW, June 03, 2009, 10:23:05 AM

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KoTAOW

Information by Tom Melnik, STOC 346:
http://www.geocities.com/tfm1_99/st_accessories.html ( web page has been deleted )

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Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation

30 amp circuit, 6 position.
Driven off of the aux. wiring through a heavy duty relay and an in-line fuse

I found all these parts at
Advance Auto Parts.

Part number: BUSS ATC Fuse Panel, 15600-06-20  Maximum 150 amps
Price: $7.99 w\o fuses

I also used an in-line fuse between the battery and 6 position fuse holder.

Part number: BUSS Heavy Duty ATC Blade Type with protective cover, BP/HHG  Maximum 30 amps
Price: $1.99 USD



Wiring diagram attached below:

KoTAOW

#1
Commercial products by Eastern Beaver Company:
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html

NOTE:  Eastern Beaver Company is owned by fellow STOC member James B. Davis, STOC 6327

Power Center 8


3 Circuit Solution


Fuse Panel Wiring Kits

KoTAOW

#2
Commercial products by Blue Sea Systems
http://bluesea.com/category/5



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Commercial products by Centech
http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/index.html







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Commercial products by FuzeBlocks
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

 


KoTAOW

#3
Original article can be viewed here:
http://koczarski.com/ST1100/AuxWiring/AuxWiring.htm

Written by Adam Koczarski, STOC 265:

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Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation


Auxiliary fuse panel velcroed to battery. Note the two in-line fuse connected to
the positive battery lead. The yellow fuse goes straight into the flex tube and to
the un-switched panel mounted on the air filter. The other fuse connects to the
'PILCO' relay and on to the auxiliary fuse panel. The relay is driven off the cooling
fan circuit.


3/8" flex tube follows the frame tube all the way to the area above the head light.


The Datel volt meter is wired through the switch show and on to the unswitched
power of the clock. This circuit was used because it didn't have the 1/2 volt drop
normally found in circuits that run through the ignition switch. This was I can see
the voltage drop before and after the headlights come on. The two upper BMW
outlets are switched, the 3rd one is unswitched for easier battery charging.


Ram GPS mount and miscellaneous wiring.


The left box is my mp3 player adapter. The center box contains the GPS power
converter. My Kriss headlight modulator is on the right.


The MP3 and GPS leads are run through the existing openings in the cover piece


All buttoned up!

KoTAOW

#4
Original article can be viewed here:
http://www.illzoni.com/bikes/farkles/FZ1/

Written by by Jon Ransom, STOC 063:

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Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation

Each of the six (6) circuits can be individually set to always on or switched power by just moving the fuse.

Switched power uses a lower power switched lead to activate the included 30A relay, so you can run full power to those switched accessories.

 
Radio Shack Superlock Fastener should hold it securely in the tail.

 
I bought #6 machine screws with self-locking nuts to mount the bottom plate.

 
Sure is a nice looking piece, eh?


And here it is installed in the tail.

KoTAOW

#5
Original article can be viewed here:
http://www.stocrallies.com/st-riders/index.php?topic=1850.msg13401#msg13401

Written by by Raouf Wilson:

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Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation

Finally had to time to finish stuff from the long list of winter projects, that kept getting put off. It has been a long winter up here, and you'd think good time to get stuff done, wrong. When I had time, it was so cold in the garage, wires wouldn't even bend. My kerosene heater didn't do the job at all.

Bought the Centech 2 and relay wire harness from:
Jim at  Easternbeaver  http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/AP-2/ap-2.html

I powered the relay off the accessory wire behind the fuse box. I saw it in the schematic, but took me for ever to figure out where it was hidden. I had take off the air intake stuff to access the blue with white stripe wire (thanks to John O's pages I found this). But when it came time to hook the PosiTap©, I couldn't do it (wimp), so chose the accessory wire instead.

On the Centech© I cut out galvanized sheet metal and screwed it to the 4 "legs" on the bottom of the Centech board, and used industrial strength Velcro on the bottom. I put the other part of the Velcro© on the black triangle plate under the headlight. This has a lip which made an ideal location.

While I was at it, I installed a 132 db Fiamm horn (in the key of Low F). It was a tight fit, and I had to drill an extra hole in the supplied bracket to drop the horn so it doesn't hit the relays on the left side. It was tight fit, as the speedo cable is there and had to make sure it didn't get pinched or move over. Checked the back and forth of the steering, and it doesn't rub the forks.

For "just in case" I left the cigarette power adapter still hooked up to the battery direct. The heated liner and gloves power is still hooked up to the battery. Will take these out as I see how the Centech© stays in place.

So with all this fuse block power, it has the 2610 GPS wired for now. Talk about over capacity. Looking to change that with a power supply in the left pocket, which will also have a quick release in case I want to take the pocket out.

But now I want to get out and ride, as everything is back together, just waiting for the bags to go on.

Here are some pics:











KoTAOW

#6
Original article can be viewed here:
http://www.my-mc.com/messages/1/100174.html

Written by by Julien d', STOC 7236:

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Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation

I've finally completed the basic setup of a fuse block with relay and fuse.

Once I decided where to install the fuse block, I purchased industrial strength Velcro to hold it in place in the tail section


Then I ran some red 10ga wire from the battery to a 30A fuse, then to a 40A relay (30A would have been sufficient, but a co-worker had the 40A unit), then finally to the fuse block. I covered the wires with loam (can I call it that?), and also used heat shrink tubing over the connectors. I ran out of red tubing.


This is a closer view of the relay with fuse. I'm powering the coil of the relay with the accessory terminals, therefore the fuse block is only energized when the ignition is on.


And finally a view through the side panel. It may look a little off, but I can change the fuse without removing the side panel.