Author Topic: Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation ( ST1300 )  (Read 6424 times)

Offline KoTAOW

  • Keeper of the Archive of Wisdom
  • Moderator
  • STrider
  • *****
  • Posts: 465
Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation ( ST1300 )
« on: June 03, 2009, 08:46:36 PM »
Original article can be viewed here:
http://www.st1300.us.com/showpost.php?p=7649&postcount=1

Written by by Forest Aten, aka uptoblackwood, STOC 5823:

~~~

Auxiliary Fuse Panel Installation

I ordered a new fuse block, the PC-8 from James B. Davis, at www.easternbeaver.com, this past month. I received the block/kit in about a week. He posts/mails most of what he sells, from Japan...using regular post and it arrives as quickly or even quicker than domestic mail! I also ordered the 36" relay/wire harness kit. It was a guess on the length....but what I ordered worked out to be the perfect length.

I installed the fuse block against the CPU in the rear boot of the seat area. I was replacing a huge Blue Sea block and was really looking forward to cleaning up all of the wildly running wires.

I placed the relay just aft of the positive battery terminal. There's plenty of space in that area and it gave me good clean access to both battery terminals from the harness Jim provides. The 36" cable lengths are just right if you set the relay in this position.
(See photo #5)

The relay kit has a wire you run to switched power.....and that wire I ran across the seat area to the location of the standard factory fuse blocks for the ST. There is a nice write up about tapping into a wire coming out of this set of blocks on www.st-owners.com....
...and it worked perfectly for this application.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56085&highlight=switched+power

There is a lot of room behind those blocks. I already have a 30 amp relay sitting behind those blocks, that run my aux fork lights. There's even enough room for a second 30 amp relay....stacked. Very nice...and very clean routing. I used tape to secure wires at this point....not necessary...but made things neat and tidy.
(See photo #4)

I ran the cable to the PC-8 along the top frame member on the battery side. The 36" length was perfect. I looped the cable over and all incoming power/ground leads were routed in from the left side of the bike. (to the right in the images) You can see that with one reversal loop, it allows the block to sit directly centered over the bikes CPU and the rubber retainers that exist in that area hold the block perfectly against the CPU block.

The incoming wires were routed through a plastic cable housing and then out to the block. I used some electrical tape to keep things neat. With the loop in the main cable to the block....you have enough cable to pull the entire assembly away from the bike a bit and work on things....then slide the block under the rubber retainers and it's done. The wire runs sit right along the frame of the bike and can be tie wrapped if you want. Mine fit so well and are so secure, I won't use many wraps.

You can see my Autocom AVI Pro sitting in the space the original "tool bag" was located. Things are now clean and neat and I've got a bit of room available (for what I have no idea). LOL

You can find info on the PC-8 here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

Info on the Fuse Panel Wiring Kits here:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/Wiring_Kits/wiring_kits.html

~~~

NOTE:  Left click on photo to get higher resolution at Webshots.

Photo #1


Photo #2


Photo #3


Photo #4


Photo #5
« Last Edit: June 03, 2009, 08:58:39 PM by KoTAOW »