Author Topic: StebelŪ Horn Installation ( ST1300 )  (Read 6415 times)

Offline KoTAOW

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StebelŪ Horn Installation ( ST1300 )
« on: June 10, 2009, 05:42:38 PM »
Original article can be viewed here:

Written by Daniel Shaw, STOC 5584.

NOTE: There have been numerous requests to Dan via email and PM's to get permission to post his
article without success.  Until he otherwise states he wants this article removed, it will remain in the AOW section


StebelŪ Horn Installation

Technical specifications:Stebel 139db, Nautilus
Sound Output: 139 dB
Operating Voltage: 12 Volts
Absorbed Current: less than 18A
Fundamental Frequency: 530 Hz & 680 Hz
Weight: 0.6 kg (1.3 lbs)
Dimensions: 5.9" (150mm) x 4.4" (112mm) x 3.7" (95 mm)
Reaction time: less than 90 milli-seconds

To hear a sound file for this horn go to  click on products, click on electro-pneumatics, then click on Nautilus.

  This is a Stebel 139db, Nautilus Compact air horn. I bought it on Ebay for $35. If you want a loud horn, buy this. Do not test it in your garage with the door closed. LOL. It was a wonderfully annoying as hell tone to it, people and animals will want to get away from you when you fire it off.  It comes in 3 colors which are, black, red and chrome. Installation is a bit time consuming but well worth it.  The horn is mounted in the middle fairing on the drivers right hand side.

NOTE:  Left click on photo to get higher resolution at Webshots.

I just installed the compact Stebel horn on my ST1300 and it fits like a glove, so I thought I would share a few details on the install.

On the right side of the bike behind the mirror is a bracket used to support the mirror but it has an extra hole which is perfect for attaching the bolt that comes with the Stebel horn. The only modification required is drilling out the hole to 5/16" so the bolt supplied with the Stebel horn fits. The nice thing is that you can use the mounting bracket and bolts that came with the Stebel horn as it was intended.

The hardest part of the install is removing the plastic. Once the mirror and side panel have been removed you will need to remove the bolts attaching the front panel. You do not need to remove this panel completely, you only need about and inch or so in order to drill the 5/16" hole. Just be careful not to damage the plastic. The hole is only sightly smaller then 5/16" so the drilling is fairly simple.

I installed a relay and provided 12V/20Amp power to the horn and it is loud.


Just another picture...... but click here for a complete
procedure on how to remove the plastic fairings.


  I used 14ga. wire to run from the battery to a 20amp inline fuse then snaked the wired though the ride side of the bike and eventually to the battery. When your routing the wires, stop and look and make sure the fairing isn't going to contact the wire in any shape form or fashion. Plastic fairing edges can cut though wires easily as a result of vibration.  I  used tie wraps to secure the wire.  Crimp terminal connectors are required as well as wire because the horn comes with; the horn, 1 relay,1small  rectangular stabilizer block,  1 bolt and 1 nut and that's it. The relay is a standard 30 amp automotive type with 4 terminals.


  The Power lead snakes downward from around the radiator, along the bottom of the frame, under the left foot rest and to the horn.

1. You simply pull the 2 wires off the back of the stock horn and plug them into to pins 85 and 86 on the back of the relay. It doesn't matter which goes to which because these 2 terminals (only these 2) are not polarity sensitive.

2. The hot wire from the battery goes to pin 30/51 (could be labeled as either)

3. You take the last pin, 87, of the relay and take that to the + terminal on the air horn.

4. The air horn has one other pin besides the one mentioned in Step #3 and it is ground. So you will need to take this last pin to ground the best way you can. I used the bolt which holds the stock horn to the frame as my grounding point.

  Notice the specs say it is going to pull around 18amps @24v so 8 amps is our useable 12v number so don't put under a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder. And don't think that you can get away with not running a fused wire run to the battery for this little monster. If you try to use the existing 2 connections for a standard horn you will be replacing a lot of fuses. If you are going to use the accessory jacks under the seat or in the headlight bucket, good luck, and make sure you haven't tacked other devices such as spotlights into those connectors. The accessory fuse is only a 10 amp fuse. You make the call how you want to install it. I personally believe in separating/isolating circuits from one another. It's just the way I do things.

  I have noticed that in this part of the country where the humidity and temperature are high during the summer months, air conditioners in cars run all the time, windows up, radios on, drivers in their own world of coolness and surrounded by music. Most of the time when I have to use the horn, I HAVE TO USE THE HORN and I lay in to it to get their distracted attentions. We aren't talking little "toots", we are talking a 3-6 blasts. You would be amazed at people in their cars do not respond to a 139db horn screaming right next to them when they are cutting you off, or pulling out right in front of you and the continue unaffected. Or perhaps you wouldn't be amazed. Anyway, cooler weather is a different story where people have their windows down or cracked more often.

Wiring Diagram.
« Last Edit: October 19, 2011, 06:56:14 AM by KoTAOW »