Original article can be found here:
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?68913-ST1300-Brake-Fluid-ReplacementetContributed by
Mark Greiner, aka MileHigh, STOC #6674.
~~~
Brake Fluid Replacement ( ST1300 )
This article and related pictures where performed on a 2006 ST1300,
non ABS.
Fluid replacement for ABS models is
exactly the same.
This article is for
fluid replacement only. If you need to replace brake pads or have additional braking problems, those should be be taken care of first.
Service interval is every 12,000 miles or 2 years. Whichever comes first. YMMV
This procedure can be performed by one person. A second person is an added bonus.
Although not required, it is advisable to have-
* A basic understanding of hydraulic brake systems.
* A basic understanding of the ST1300 Dual Combined Brake System- “Linked Braking System.”
* A Service manual. Honda manual preferred. **Even with it's faults.**
Tool listThis article utilizes an air operated vacuum pump.
LINKY This model does require a decent air compressor with at least a 20 gal. tank and, able to produce 4.3 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
A hand operated vacuum pump will work just as well.
LINKY Your hand and wrist will get tired after a while though.
- Long Phillips screwdriver
- Stubby Phillips screwdriver
- 8mm socket, with extension(s) and ratchet
- 8mm, 6 point box end wrench
- 5mm Allen® hex bit
- 6mm Allen® hex bit
- Torque wrench
- Pocket screwdriver
- Tooth brush
Materials list- At least 2, sealed, new 12oz bottles of Honda DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not use brake fluid from a previously opened container. It will have absorbed moisture.
- Shop rags or towels. Don't use kitchen paper towels. They don’t hold up and have lots of lint
- Denatured alcohol
- Masking tape
- Fender covers or large beach/bath towels and, large plastic trash bags. The plastic bags can be placed over the fender covers or towels for excellent paint protection.
Lets get started.
This procedure utilizes the following procedure or “steps”
It differs slightly from the service manual but, will accomplish the same result.
Differences in the service manual are -
When to reinstall the front left caliper bracket and, step 7. The service manual shows the wrong picture for step 7.The steps where obtained from this article. Posts 6, 31 & 32 have updates that are included in my steps.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53678Sides of bike are determined by sitting on bike. Right side is throttle side. Left side is clutch side
Bleeding procedure steps:1. Left front caliper. Outer (top) bleeder. Fed from front reservoir.
2. Right front caliper. Outer (top) bleeder. Fed from front reservoir.
3. Proportional control valve. Left front caliper with secondary rear master cylinder must be tipped. Fed from rear reservoir
4. Rear caliper. Center (forward) bleeder. Fed from rear reservoir.
5. Right front caliper. Center (lower) bleeder. Fed from rear reservoir.
6. Left front caliper. Center (lower) bleeder. Fed from rear reservoir. After re-installing from step three above.
7. Rear caliper. Outer (back) bleeder. Fed from rear reservoir.
While using a vacuum bleeder, you will see air bubbles in the clear tubing !This is normal since air is being drawn in past the threads on the bleed screw and, possibly the rubber boot on the bleeder tube.
Tools needed, Tupperware® removal tools first.

Tools needed, bleeding tools.

Materials.

Cover that tank! Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces!

You have to pull the right side Tupperware®.








Where is everything located ?






Just a little dirt removal first. Did I mention to cover the tank?





Make sure reservoir is level, otherwise fluid will spill out !


