Author Topic: TrailTech MR16 Driving Lights ( ST1300 )  (Read 4926 times)

Offline KoTAOW

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TrailTech MR16 Driving Lights ( ST1300 )
« on: April 09, 2012, 10:47:53 AM »
Submitted by John Herring, aka JohnnyRide
Original article can be found here:  TrailTech MR16 Driving Lights

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TrailTech MR16 Driving Lights ( ST1300 )


You will want to install a dedicated power harness w/relay along with this setup to protect the factory relays and wiring of your investment. The PIAAs come with everything you need including a harness and relay with other connectors as well but if you picked up a used pair without any other parts then see this Gadget page as there isn't much point in me rewriting anything on that. Adaptable relay harnesses are always available from sources such as Pepboys®, Walmart® and, Autozone®, to name a few. Usually around $20.

These are the TrailTech MR-16 Lamps Dichroic output pattern which are MR-16 based lights. Unlike the Silver Bullets out there, they can actually be pointed where you want the light to go and they are more waterproofed than the Silver Bullets as well. This company also sells their MR16 HID lights which I would have bought if they could start up quicker than 20 seconds. On hilly curvy roads the ability to turn off lights for on coming traffic and then turn them right back on it a priority. The HIDS just won't come right back on, you wait 20 seconds and that ruled them out for me. Now for other type roads, this isn't that important such as straight highways out in the middle of no where. Anyway, I am off target here, back to what I bought.


You can go with a low voltage bulb or you can go up to a 75W, like me.  Construction is really good on these and at an affordable price which, are 1/2 the MSRP of THE PIAA 1100X  lights and the replacement bulbs are mucho cheaper as well.

The front rings screws off and reveals he large black rubber weather ring which also doubles as a anti shock ring for the bulb.




Trailtech lights being designed for off road use hard wire their bulbs so you can't just unplug the bulb from a socket when you need to quickly replace the bulb. I suggest you get a couple of the small MR16 Sockets and solder them in to the circuit so bulb replacement isn't a nightmare at the wrong time.


Once mounted, they look very nice considering I mounted them up-side-down.

I have the 75W, 12 degree spot in the housing currently but They really ought to be wider for Tennessee hilly back roads at speed. I think they do a better jobs than the PIAAs hands down.  I got a hold of some 24 degree bulbs and some 35 degree bulbs and think I like the 35 degree bulbs the best. They really aren't driving lights they are most effective in a 100-150 foot range. So don't expect Hella FF50 performance. I have found that it is best to point the lights out to about 10:00 and 2:00 for the a good all around settting. If i get into tighter curves and so forth I would tilt them up a little so when I lean the are then pointing straighter, if you know what I mean.


You can also see how the mount on the light case can be adjusted left to right and up and down for that perfectly positioned beam of salvation.




Here is a source for the MR16 socket I spoke of and a source for replacement bulbs.

D2758          Ceramic Bi-Pin Halogen Socket                  2         $2.98

Ceramic Bi-Pin Halogen Socket
Rated 100W-250V
G5.3/GX5.3
10" Leads
Light Bulbs Etc, Inc.

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Thank You again for your contribution John Herring, aka JohnnyRide
« Last Edit: April 10, 2012, 11:37:41 AM by KoTAOW »