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Mike Martin's ST1100 Maintenance TipsCarb Sync with an STE SynchrometerMost of us use Carb Sticks or the like, but our friend Hans ten Broeke from The Netherlands recommended using the STE SK Synchrometer to synchronize the carburetors. Ed Lee put together a group buy for purchasing them in Europe through Hans at
his website. (Note: Hans will honor the price he gave for the group buy, though shipping for a single unit will naturally be more expensive.) If you missed that opportunity, you can now find a source for the meter here in the U. S. I Googled "carb flow meter" and found
this site so you could see what I'm referring to. (Note: I've never dealt with this company.) The smaller "SK" version of the meter is the one to use for the ST1100. (Mike Roell found a knock-off of the device
here and he reports it works "just fine for me." I found another source
at this site (usual disclaimers). The picture is very small, but my guess is that this meter is also a knock-off.
Ed also put together the following write-up for using the device. The basics of carb sync is covered in the various service manuals. Ed's instructions point out the difference in using the meter. The process seems to take a lot less time than with the mercury-filled Carb Sticks.
Ed's Write-up:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Be CAREFUL that you actually LOOK at the rubber pipes on the carbs to be sure you put the SK on the correct pipe.
As you sit on the bike:
#4 is the carb on your left next to the tank, which is directly connected to the throttle assembly and is not "adjustable" relative to the other carbs, but is adjusted by the idle adjustment knob next to the tank filler cap.
#1 is on the right front.
#2 carb is the front carb on the left side .
#3 is on the right rear.
The rubber tubes that you put the SK into sit on top of their respective carbs, but the OPENINGS to the tubes are on the OPPOSITE SIDE. Just set an rpm with the adjustment knob (next to the filler) that will assure that each carb is well off any mechanical stops (I used 2000 rpm for an "idle" speed for my tests). Then plug the SK into the tube for #4 (which opens on the RIGHT rear even though the carb is on the left rear) and take the reading. Let's say it is 4.0. Now move the SK up to the opening on the right front tube which goes to the carb on the LEFT front, #2 and adjust the screw on the shaft between the two carbs on the left side so that #2 is has the same flow as #4. Then move the SK to the tube for #1 carb (right front), which opens on the LEFT side at the front, and adjust the forward screw joining the throttles on the right two carbs so the SK reads the same flow as #4 and #2. Finally move the SK to the tube for #3 (which opens on the LEFT side, rear) and adjust the aft screw on the shaft between the two carbs on the right side to match the flows on the other carbs.
Go back to #4 and check the flow again to make sure it has not changed. If any of the carbs were way off, it will have changed because the idle speed will have changed. If #4 is no longer at the original reading then repeat the process as above. It will be correct after that. Now readjust the knob for the master idle and button it back up.
As an aside, I removed the bottom part of the airbox to do mine because it was just too hard to see and get the throttle linkage adjustment screws with it in place. If you DO remove it, remember to replace the little crankcase breather hose connected to the bottom side. Easy to miss.
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After Ed posted his write-up, Hans responded with,
"Hi Ed,
"Nice you like the SK also.
"I only use a thin long, about 10" screw driver and a mini maglite, and don't remove anything at all besides the dummy tank and of course first, the side panels to remove the dummy tank."
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Thanks to Ed and Hans for their helpful suggestions.
