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* * * Article pending permission by Author * * *

Submitted by John Heath, STOC #XXXX
Original article can be found here:


Brakes - Operation of the Master Cylinder ( ST1100\ST1300 )

Some basic information here about the operation of the brake master cylinder.

This document was last edited on 17 July 2017 to remove references to 'relief port' and use the more correct 'compensating port'.

1 - 'Relaxed' Brake Master Cylinder (ie Brakes are not Applied)

The image shows the front master cylinder and the reservoir immediately above it - just like the ones used on the clutch and brake lever on the ST1300. The piston and push rod are shown in grey.

The primary seal (blue) is the one that applies considerable pressure to the braking system.

The secondary seal (black) maintains a body of fluid behind the primary seal which is gravity fed from the reservoir above. It also isolates the system from the outside world. This seal is never normally put under any great (ie braking force) pressure. The ST1300s secondary master cylinder being an exception to this arrangement.

Note the larger inlet port between the reservoir and the piston/cylinder. This maintains a volume of fluid between the two seals, fed constantly from the reservoir. The inlet port is never closed off by the position of the piston and seals.

The tiny compensating port is immediately in front (just to the left) of the primary seal. This allows fluid in the braking system to return into the reservoir and relieves any build up of pressure when the braking system is in this 'relaxed' state.

The spring is responsible for returning the piston to the right on this diagram. The push rod at the right hand end is operated by the brake lever.

The hose to the brake calliper is shown descending beyond the bottom of the picture on the left of the master cylinder.


2 - Master Cylinder when Brake is Applied

In Diagram 2, the piston has been pushed to the left. Fluid under pressure (pink) is forced down the brake line to the pistons in the brake caliper. Note that the primary seal (blue) has moved past the compensating port, preventing any fluid from returning to the reservoir. The fluid under pressure is responsible for pushing out the pistons in the brake calliper which push the brake pads onto the disc rotors. Once the brake pads are in contact with the disc rotors it takes only a small movement in the master cylinder (brake lever) to exert a force sufficient to bring the bike to a halt.


3 - Releasing the Brake Lever

When the brake lever is released, the piston and plunger are returned to the initial 'relaxed' position primarily as a result of the spring pressure in the master cylinder, but aided by the flexible hoses and the calliper piston seals returning to their normal state.

Each time the brakes are applied, the pads wear down a tiny fraction, and the calliper pistons are pushed out further than they were before the brakes were applied. When the brakes are released, the spring returns the master cylinder piston to its relaxed state and a negative pressure (vacuum) is created in the brake lines. Fluid is able to flow past the lips of the primary seal to allow for the fact that the pads have worn down a little.

The diagram shows the piston towards the end of its travel back to its 'relaxed' state, and the red arrow indicates the flow of extra fluid from the yellow reservoir fluid and into the brake lines (green fluid).


4 - Dealing with Pressure Build-up

When the brake is not being applied, and the system is in a relaxed state, it is important that fluid is able to 'flow' to and from the reservoir as required. This is can happen when:-

* A slight warps in the disc rotors or general chattering of the brakes over bumpy surfaces pushes the pistons in slightly.
* An increases in temperature causes the fluid to expand.
* The bike cools down in the garage overnight and the fluid contracts. The relief port allows fluid to flow into the brake lines rather than suck the calliper pistons back.
* The brake pads are replaced and the calliper pistons are pushed in. The displaced fluid returns to the reservoir through the tiny relief port. No damage can result in pushing in the calliper pistons in this way if the system has been flushed with new fluid and the exposed calliper pistons are clean. Otherwise it is better to expel the old fluid from the calliper bores via the bleed valve.

The picture shows the pressure in the brake line being allowed to pass through the tiny compensating port into the reservoir, once the brake lever has been released. To prevent the 'fountain' shown in the diagram, a small chromed disc clips slightly above the port at the bottom of the reservoir.


5 - Blocked Pressure Relief Port

If the piston is prevented from returning to its proper 'relaxed' state, then the Primary Seal will not expose the tiny compensating port. This could be caused by corrosion behind the piston, as shown. This part of the piston is open to the elements unless treated with silicone grease and covered with a rubber boot.

Alternatively, the compensating port itself could be blocked. Fluid that isn't replaced every year can turn into a thick gel which accumulates in the bottom of the reservoir. Or perhaps debris has fallen into the reservoir during a service.

Whatever, if the compensating port is not clear, or the piston fails to return properly to expose the compensating port, pressure builds up (red) and the brakes lock on solid. I have seen one situation recently where a master cylinder service kit was supplied incorrectly. The push rod was slightly too long and front brakes locked on solid at the first application and would not release.


The illustrations refer to the ST1300 front master cylinder, but the principles also apply to the secondary master cylinder and the rear master cylinder, even though their relief port is connected to the fluid inlet line rather than to the reservoir itself.


Final note. Throughout this document, I have made much more of the role of the compensating port in relieving pressure than its other functions.

In fact, the port will allow fluid to flow in either direction to add or remove fluid from the lines to compensate for the fact that the existing fluid will expand or contract as the temperature fluctuates. To do this, the master cylinder piston has to be returned to its relaxed position so that the port is not blocked by the seal. The spring in the master cylinder ensures that this happens.


Thank You again for your contribution John Heath, STOC #XXXX
ST1300 Archive of Wisdom / Linked vs. Non-Linked Brake Schematics - ( ST1300 ) *
« Last post by KoTAOW on December 04, 2017, 06:23:16 PM »
Submitted by David Helck, aka Anna's Dad

Original posting link:


Linked vs. Non-Linked Brake Schematics
( ST1300 )

The Dual Combined Brake System (DCBS) that Honda employed for the ST1300 is an effective, marvelous, and complex example of hydraulic/mechanical design. Unfortunately due to a dearth of easily accessible information for this design, a comprehensive understanding of the operation of the DCBS has remained elusive.

However this is changing, with the availability of low cost DCBS components on eBay, I have purchased, disassembled, measured, and drawn most (if not all) of the brake components for the Honda ST1300. With each component now carefully documented, it became an interesting task to try and puzzle out (reverse engineer) what the original designers were trying to accomplish.

Below are the links to the various brake components that I have documented, please note that the descriptions of operation with each component (probably on the order of 90% correct) are based on my interpretations of the hydraulic/mechanical design.

Linked Brake System (pdf)
This drawing is a general over view of the DCBS as used on the Honda ST1300.
Direct link:

Components of Honda DCBS (pdf)
This drawing is again an over view of the DCBS with a focus on the individual brake components, and how they interact with one another.
Direct link:

Secondary Master Cylinder (pdf)
This drawing is a detailed explanation of the SMC as used on the Honda ST1300.
Direct link:

SMC Stages of Operation (pdf)
This drawing attempts to demonstrate the operation of the SMC showing fluid flow during operation.
Direct link:

Brake - Delay Valve (pdf)
This drawing is an explanation of the Delay Valve, demonstrating the operation of the Delay Valve showing fluid flow during operation.
Direct link:

Brake - Proportioning Valve (pdf)
This drawing is an explanation of the Proportional Valve, demonstrating the operation of the Proportional Valve showing fluid flow during operation.
Direct link:

Lastly, here's a link to more motorcycle drawings.
These are drawings that I've made relating to either my '06 Honda ST1300/A, or my daughter's '07 Kawasaki 250R.
Direct link:

My goal in this undertaking is to provide a resource for other curious Honda (and non Honda) motorcycle owners who just "want to know".



Thank You again for your contribution David Helck, aka Anna's Dad
ST1100 Archive of Wisdom / Re: Third Tail or Additional Brake Light ( ST1100 )
« Last post by KoTAOW on November 16, 2017, 11:27:46 AM »
Submitted by Norm Keller, STOC#8030


Third Brake Light ( ST1100 )

I added an H1 quartz bulb linked through a relay and load type flasher to the rear brake light wire.

It is a bit brighter than the other two (side) original brake lights but not enough to draw "official" disapproval. When the brake is applied, the three bulbs light and after about two seconds, the load type signal flasher begins to cycle which creates a very eye catching effect. I used an old KLR650 signal flasher because I wanted a delay before the flashing begins and an electronic or heavier load type begins to flash immediately.

Easy to do and, IMO, well worth the time required.

I seem not to be able to find photos of the bulb install but someone else posted these so they will be found.

Identify the brake light wire in the rear plug behind the under seat storage panel.

Remove the brake light terminal from the junction plug. Note that I do not like to cut into wiring and prefer to add the lead to the original plug in such a way that the system can be returned to stock if desired. The special tool is used to push the little latch lever in to allow the terminal to be withdrawn from the body of the plug. Bend the lever out again before sliding the terminal back into place.

Solder the lead wire to the terminal, positioned to allow the terminal to be replaced into the plug body. The other end of the lead wire has a female bullet connector to allow the third bulb harness to be connected or removed for service. By the way; if you are in the market for a solder gun for shop use, get one of these Wall LG400C units. Mac Tools sell them as do other sources. They are so superior to the transformer type made by Weller and such as to beggar comparison. The weight is a fraction and much more compact. 400 Watt output heats up in a few seconds and has enough go for heavy terminals. If that's not enough, get the 550 Watt element. I've seen them advertised for around $60 yes, I own one, and yes, I used to sell them. The other types are crap! As any alternator repair shop!

Power for the relay was taken from the fuse box and is live because the circuit is controlled by the brake light switch.

The terminals of the 10 amp miniature relay were potted with a rubber tool handle coating after the wires were soldered into place. The relay was secured to the left side, outside of the rear seat storage compartment so no storage space is lost.

A search under 3rd brake light or such should find the photos showing the modification of the tail light housing. A very simple and useful modification, IMO.

Hats off to the originator!


Thank You again for your contribution Norm Keller, STOC #8030
ST1100 Archive of Wisdom / Additional Storage with Front Panniers ( ST1100 ) *
« Last post by KoTAOW on October 05, 2017, 01:12:52 PM »
Submitted by David Kunze, STOC #1155


Additional Storage with Front Panniers ( ST1100 )

Since some have expressed an interest in the following truly unique and custom farkle, I am posting additional information and photographs within this thread.  Additional secured storage was obtained by installing a small pannier on the tip-over wings.

Here's a photo/farkle for the guys/gals who may ride two-up and prefer more cargo capacity for tools, spare parts, camping gear or anything else on your list... I allocate the trunk space for riding gear while parked and use the front bags for the heavier items such as tools, tent stakes, rain/cold weather gear or less frequently accessed items.

>Love the idea of the front hard bags. How did you mount them? <

I know the front bags are not for everyone. However, I don't care to shuffle things around that I don't use everyday simply to access things I do use every day, especially while traveling two-up or motorcycle camping. Most riders don't care to drag their tool bag, air compressor or spares into a hotel room or to sort their luggage in the parking lot.

The extra capacity is significant. The smaller bags hold a lot more than you may guess at first glance. Even the lids are shaped to accommodate more.  A lot was gained and very little compromised by installing the bags.

The mounted front bags/panniers:
* are narrower than the width of the rear panniers and may be the same width of the mirrors.
* provide additional protection from the wind and rain.
* retain access to the oil fill cap (simply unlock and lift the lid)
* prevents tampering of the oil fill cap and spark plug wires
* provide additional leg protection while in an accident. I met an amputee once who lost his
   leg due to a broadside collision with a car while on a motorcycle. (If packed with heavy items,
   such as tools, the bags offer an additional buffer.)
* are secure with matching locks
* keep the cargo weight low and towards the front
* do not interfere with splitting lanes or moving the motorcycle
* do not interfere with rider's legs
* do not create any heat dissipation issues
* are mounted with only four bolts and may be removed quickly
* provides peace of mind by being more organized and packing bags according to frequency of use
* helps an owner become more self-reliant by packing more troubleshooting tools and spares.
* often fools the general public into thinking they are stock OEM bags or accessories
* become permanent once used for a while by spoiling the owner

* larger front profile and possibly less aerodynamic (ref photo)... perhaps a fuel tax?
* appearance for those strict 'form over function' folks
* Fortunately, I have not had an opportunity to crash test the panniers/bags.

The installation is rather simple. I purchased:
* the bags on eBay from a company in San Francisco. ($135-ish in 2017)

GA Series Hard Saddlebags

* a pair of aftermarket ST1100 highway pegs & associated mounts (ref photo)
* Honda OEM markers and Pan American Logo
* services of a local fabrication shop to provide the mounting platform.

Btw, if you are careful while determining the placement of the front panniers, the maintenance covers may be removed while the front panniers are mounted.

I hope all these photographs inspire fellow riders, seeking additional storage, to consider a similar upgrade... just tell everyone it is Honda's 'grand touring' option.
Hopefully the following photographs are self-explanatory.
>Why do you need that much storage capacity?<

Every rider is different and each of us have different hobbies, interests and priorities. I enjoy photography and travel with a lot photography equipment. As mentioned above, I like to have everything secured while parked and walking about in a park or in the city. (Don't give a thief an opportunity to disappoint you..) Therefore, my riding suit and boots utilize the trunk while parked. I use bag liners in the panniers and allocate one to my gal and one for myself or we share one and utilize the other for a small cooler containing food she prepared before leaving. (Her cooking is much healthier than the restaurants.) I suppose some may take advantage of hotels/restaurants and do not camp. I am sure many motorcycling-campers on this forum would like additional storage. When camping, additional volume is needed... sleeping bags and tents are not heavy. By utilizing the smaller aux. panniers for smaller items, additional space is available in the rear panniers for larger items. For three years I did not have a car/truck and used my motorcycle for everything. The extra capacity may be convenient for the daily riders without a second vehicle for daily errands such as going to the grocery store. As I mentioned in the original posts, I understand this mod isn't for everyone...

Finally, the motorcycle reflected in the photographs was recently sold to a fellow ST-Lister, Jim Aragon, and I believe he will attend WeSTOC next month.  If you have additional questions not covered in the above, please feel free to send a PM or post to this thread. 

(Many thanks to Jim Aragon for sharing the first 'last ride' photograph.)

The farkle isn't totally unique... there's another ST1100A in red with the same grand touring option....
Btw, I would like to add the highway pegs are not usable, as hoped.  Therefore, they are not required nor recommended for this installation.

Thank you & ride safely!


Thank You again for your contribution David Kunze, STOC #1155
ST1100 Archive of Wisdom / Re: External Auxiliary Fuel Pump ( ST1100 )
« Last post by KoTAOW on March 08, 2017, 01:14:57 PM »
External Auxiliary Fuel Pump ( ST1100 ) - Part 2


Additional comments by Raouf Wilson:

Okay some final pictures of the setup I have now.

1. The set up.

2. Facet model 60304 with Facet Fuel filter.

3. OEM clamp using existing carb fuel line and brass 5/8 hose barb in Facet.

4. Rubber shim to keep the hose clamp from touching tank.

5. I used the OEM fuel filter but too many clamps and too long and tough to fit plastic back on.

6. Zip ties are your friend, red of course. Go under the seat hook.

Keep the OEM Vacuum bypass set up for later use, when you finally buy a proper OEM pump and be a cheap ass like me. Okay I bought a used one or two that I will carry too.

See all those extra hose clamps and OEM Fuel filter. Why does the bypass only have 1 screw. You all know that there are 2 holding it to the air filter housing.

Okay here is where the missing screw went. I figured this out while I was looking to see what I could find to fit that, a golf tee would be good too. That vacuum hose needs to be blocked, since the by pass valve has been by passed.. :grin:

Here is what the pump sounds like. It was scary to hear this the first time from such a small pump.


Thank You again for your contribution Raouf Wilson, STOC #6136
ST1100 Archive of Wisdom / External Auxiliary Fuel Pump ( ST1100 ) *
« Last post by KoTAOW on March 08, 2017, 01:13:48 PM »
Submitted by Raouf Wilson, STOC #6136


External Auxiliary Fuel Pump ( ST1100 )

Original "Help, Save Me" thread (Link)


I had the fuel pump strand me on I-70 about an hour West of Grand Junction during WeSToc. Thanks to the liST, Dave Nichols sent me his Facet fuel pump and fitted it with the plumbing and wires and shipped it to me overnight so I can get set and hit the road home. Just in case there was a problem, Adam Frymoyer sent me the pump out of Will's bike, which arrived the next day, which was Friday morning for the journey home. I am grateful to the kind PMs from Dave Speer, Jim Medak, and support on my "Help, Save Me" thread and Jim Vick going to see if the pump was at Apex. Awesome support  :great:

So here is the summary:

The Facet 40178 (Link) got me home, it used a bit more fuel than average, I average 46 mpg in everyday type riding, since I got the bike (I keep a mileage log). OEM pump to WeSToc high was 54 mpg and low was 45 mpg.
Trip home with Facet, high was 45 mpg and low was 40.7 mpg.

I was tense as anything for the first few hours, especially through Vale, where it got windy and wasn't sure if it was buffeting or the fuel starvation. I couldn't smell fuel which was a good sign, and filled up as soon as I hit half tank.

The Facet pump makes a thumping sound, which is apparently normal. I never heard the sound until I got home, so thought the pump was toast, but I emailed Facet and they said it was normal. I thought it odd that I hadn't heart it before, then I realized there were a couple of reasons; when I installed it, John Parker was working on his bike beside me and revving it, and I was ecstatic that my bike was now working and wouldn't have heard anything except joy! When I turn the key on, the pump starts thumping, but of course I had my earplugs in, so couldn't hear that sound. It was only at home when in the quiet garage, when I turn on the key that I heard it, and couldn't figure out what it was.

The Facet pump was hooked up straight from the fuel line coming out of the tank, direct to the carburetor hose, the fuel vacuum shutoff valve was removed, and I wired the pump to my Centech II auxiliary fuse block which I have under the headlight. So the pump would run when ignition was on. I left the OEM pump wired as is. Before I installed the Facet, my bike did fire up on the OEM pump, but I wasn't going to take a chance. I also didn't have any fuel filter attached. When I got home I found the Facet fuel filter that screwed right into the pump and worked well.

Fast Forward to October, 2016.....

I didn't like the idea of the extra pressure this pump puts out (2.0-3.5) plus I wanted to use a switch to turn it off and on so I can see if my OEM pump still works and keep the aux pump as standby. This model pump has a positive shut off valve, so no power, no flow and would block the OEM pump.

So I ordered the: Facet 60304 Posi-Flo Pump (Link) with no shutoff valve. So wired it using one of the Police Right hand switches, so I can turn off and on and see how OEM pump works. Of course no time for a long test drive until mid November when it was too good a day to go to work, managed a 250 mile ride to test the Facet pump and the mileage was 45.5 mpg. Of course one ride isn't going to prove much, but I did try to ride my usual places to get an idea.

Once the riding season starts for 2017, I will get more numbers, and then I will turn it off and see how the OEM does.

The most important thing to note is you need a 3/8 hose barb. I cannot find one here, only 5/16, which even with a hose clamp, will leak while connected to the carburetor hose. I didn't want to cut any hoses or mess with the OEM setup, so it can go back to stock at any time. The Facet fuel filter fits great to the fuel tank hose, which is smaller than the carb hose. I also didn't want to cut that OEM fuel tank hose, so bought a fuel hose that I can butcher to custom.

This would be something to consider adding to the emergency kit as it doesn't cost too much and take up too much room. Estimated cost: $36.50 ( 2017 )

Here are some pics:

1. Setup to get me home no fuel filter

2. How it buttons up, it is tight under there.

3. Comparing old one, red cover and new one, more plastic feeling but still heavy

4. Initial set up, with 5/16 fitting, I was smelling gas, no good.

5. How it looks all done, some foam pads to keep it from vibrating against the tupperware.


Additional Comments by Raouf Wilson:
Jeff Nichols brings up a good point in suggestion that the wires should be hooked up to the OEM pump wires so that the tip over shutoff circuit can be utilized. I think this would be wise for a long term install.

Additional question by Tom Melnik:
I was thinking the same thing after reading your write up, why not just wire it into the existing pump wires.

Does the OEM pump have to operate at the same time as the external pump?

Can the external pump pull fuel out of the tank with the OEM off?

Additional comment by Raouf Wilson:
The aux fuel pump will operate off the OEM pump wires, I tried when I got home.

The aux fuel pump will also operate with the OEM pump not turned on. I had them both working as I wasn't sure if the OEM pump was off, it would have restricted the flow in any way. Once home I disconnected the wires to the OEM pump and the aux worked just fine.

Right now my set up is to have the aux fuel pump turned on and off with a switch, and have the OEM running. My next change will be to run the aux fuel pump off the OEM circuit for the shutoff operation. Right now if something happened and the ignition key was still on, the aux pump would just be pushing fuel out.

Ideally, I would also like to put the vacuum shut off valve back, but there is such little room for aux pump as it is, I may just have to live with that set up.

ST1100 Archive of Wisdom / Re: Fork Seal R&R Tips ( ST1100 ) *
« Last post by John OoSTerhuis on November 14, 2016, 09:00:03 PM »
Damper rod holding tools.
ST1300 Archive of Wisdom / Re: Lower Fuel Tank Replacement ( ST1300 ) *
« Last post by KoTAOW on June 11, 2015, 07:17:52 PM »
Lower Fuel Tank Replacement ( ST1300 ) - Part 2



Installation basically consists of doing everything in reverse. I do have a couple of notes
on this though:

NOTE 1: You will have to reuse the rubber grommets from your old tank. These are
located in the tank mounting holes. They just pull right out. To put them in the new
tank, just spray a little silicone oil on them, do a bit of squeezing and pressing, and
they'll pop right in.

NOTE 2: I put my new fuel pump in the replacement tank before I slipped it into
the bike. To do this I just put the pump in and lightly finger tightened the nuts. I did
this because I did not want to fight the wiring harness that hangs over the left rear
corner of the tank when it is installed.

NOTE 3: VERY IMPORTANT. When you get the lower tank back in and fastened,
the next step is to torque down the fuel pump nuts on the new lower tank. There is a
definite sequence and torque value that has to be followed
when tightening these
nuts. This sequence differs for '03 and post '03 ST13 models.

The fuel pump tightening sequence diagram is located on pg 5-56 & 5-57 of the '05
SM. It's also located on 1-15 '05 SM where it also shows the torque values for the
various fasteners. If you don't have a SM, just google for it under the subject
"ST1300 fuel pump replacement" or ask on an online, ST1300 forum.

Before I even slipped the tank back in, I wrote the correct sequence number on the
top of the fuel pump by each nut using a black felt tip marker. Unfortunately I did
not take a picture of it.

After the tank was installed and every thing else buttoned up, I first finger
tightened each nut as much as possible in sequence. I then worked in sequence
around the pump in steps, tightening just a little during one round, then a bit more
in the succeeding rounds using a torque wrench until I reached recommended
torque of 12 NM <9 ft-lbs> seen on the above pages.

NOTE 4: I used new washers on the large banjo fitting that attaches the outgoing
gas line to the fuel pump. Not sure it's needed but they are cheap and I wanted to
minimize the possibility of leaks so that I'd have to do this job only once!


UPPER FUEL TANK REPLACEMENT (pg 5-60 '05 SM & 5-59 '03 SM):

I won't go into detail on this but I do have a few notes on this:
NOTE 1. Honda recommends to use a new fuel joint hose (connects upper to lower
tank) and clips. I followed their advice.

** NOTE 2. Check for leaks. Once the tank is on and completely hooked up, slowly
pour in gas in steps and check for leaks.
Raise the upper tank occasionally to check
for leaks at the fuel joint hose beneath the tank. I looked at to
get a feel for how much gas to put in to fill the lower tank plus a little bit in the connecting hose. After a
brief check, I proceeded in a step wise manner putting more and more gas and checking for leaks. I did this in steps
because the more fuel that's in the top tank, the higher the pressure in the joint hose and on the fuel pump seal.

After filling the tank with a bit over 5 gallons, let it sit overnight before starting to make sure there are no small leaks.


Final Note - no leaks, the bike ran well, all was good.

That's all folks. Hopefully you'll never have to replace a lower fuel tank.


Thank You again for your contribution Mick McHam, STOC #1134
ST1300 Archive of Wisdom / Lower Fuel Tank Replacement ( ST1300 ) *
« Last post by KoTAOW on June 11, 2015, 07:16:40 PM »
Submitted by Mick McHam, STOC #1134

Original article in PDF here:  Lower Fuel Tank Replacement Steps - Rev c

Mick: I had to replace my lower fuel tank about 6 months after I bought my ST1300 in 2012. It was way more involved than I would have thought and it took a good deal of time. Because I am apparently one of the very few ST1300 owners who've had to do this job, I did a "how-to" write up of it and put it in PDF form (attached). Lots of pictures to help guide you through the process.


Lower Fuel Tank Replacement ( ST1300 ) - Part 1

This work was performed on a 2005 model ST1300.

This "how to" guide is intended as a compliment to the ST1300 Service Manual (SM). If you don't have a manual, get hold of a copy. There are some pictures and diagrams in the manual that would be helpful and some that you will need. At the very least, you'll need it for steps such as upper tank removal & installation (which I dont cover here), double checking torque values, and especially the fuel pump tightening sequence for your year model ST. Since those sequence diagrams are probably copyrighted, I did not include them.

The instructions below are laid out in sequence from beginning to end saving you the time of having to hop back and forth around the ST1300 SM. My step numbering system reflects the "nesting" that resulted from having been referred by the SM to multiple pages to perform subordinate steps.

Although I do mention the upper tank, this procedure basically starts with the upper tank already off.

As much as possible, I reference page numbers in the SM so that you can double check or look for clarification. Because I have both, I've referenced page #'s for the 2005 ST1300 and the 2003 ST1300. There are differences.

I've listed torque values for use in reassembly.

Tips & Notes will be in green text.
- it is important to read each step's notes before proceeding.

Steps are in red text.


Before Beginning...Words of Wisdom

1. Take pictures, lots & lots of pictures, from all different angles before you perform a step. These are absolutely invaluable when putting everything back together. Remember that every hose and every wire has to be connected back up AND routed exactly like it was from the factory. I took a bunch of pictures but wish I'd have taken more.

2. Because there are so many fasteners and parts involved in this procedure, put fasteners in a labeled, zip lock bag for each item. I even taped these bags to the part they go to when possible, such as the cowlings, fenders, etc. just to keep things as organized as possible.

3. Make ABSOLUTELY sure that there is no gas in the upper tank or connecting hoses & lines before removing the upper tank. To accomplish this, I ran the bike until there was one blinking bar on the gas gauge as indicated in the article at this link:



1. Remove the panniers and rear side covers. (pg 2-6, '05 & '03 SM)

2. Remove the upper tank after making sure there is no gas in the tank or lines.

Since most folks on this site have removed their upper tanks, I'll not go into the details
of removal. If you've never removed the upper tank before, see pg 5-57 '05 SM (p 5-56
'03 SM) for removal, & 5-60 '05 SM (5-59 '03 SM) for installation.

3. Remove the seat height adjuster.

NOTE: When removing the seat height adjuster, be sure and put rags in open
spaces where bolts could fall. This tip goes for any situation where bolts might fall
and be trapped in nether regions of the bike or dropped on the ground and roll into
hiding places.

3. Remove the seat rail (pg 2-22 in the '05 service manual(SM) & 2-19 in the '03 SM).
 STEPS for rail removal:
      A.Remove rear fender "B" (pg 2-9 '05 & '03 SM). This is the entire fender, not just
the one that holds the license plate. It sounds like a simple task but there is a lot to it!
 STEPS for Rear Fender "B" removal:
      1a. Remove rear fender "A". This is the one that holds the license plate. (pg 2-8 in
 '05 & '03 SM). There are four allen bolts to be loosened. Two on the outside facing to the rear and two underneath.

2a. Remove the rear wheel. Again, I'll not go into detail here since most have done
 this many times. If you've never done it, see pg 16-6 of the '05 SM & 16-5 of the  '03 SM.

     NOTE: Torque values for use when remounting the rear wheel:
      Muffler mounting bolts 17 NM <12 ft-lbs> (pg 2-4 '05 SM)
      Muffler Band Bolts 22 NM <16 ft-lbs> (pg 16-13 & 2-20 '05 SM)
      Caliper Stopper Bolt 69 NM <51 ft-lbs> (pg 16-12 '05 SM)
      Rear Axle Nut 108 NM <80 ft-lbs> (pg. 16-13 '05 SM)

 3a. Remove the battery (pg 19-5 in the '05 & '03 SM).
      I. Remove fuse holder from the battery cover (see diagram pg 19-5 '05 SM)
     II. Remove battery cover by releasing the tab from the rear fender groove and two hooks from the two tabs on the rear fender.

    III. Disconnect negative then positive battery cable then remove battery.
    IV. Remove the metal battery holder (support bracket)

4a. Remove Rear Cowl (pg. 2-7 '05 & '03 SM)
      I. Remove the Grab Rail Center Cover by removing the 4 bolts, collars &  nuts.

     NOTE 1: Watch out for those collars & nuts! They will drop and go  bouncing on the concrete and
come to rest in places never to be found!
     NOTE 2:Torque values for reassembly. I used the standard for this bolt's  size of 10 NM <7 ft-lbs> .
These standard values can be seen on pg 1-12 of the'05 SM. The size is that of the threaded part of the bolt, not the head size.

     II. Remove the rear grab rail (pg 2-7 in '05 & '03 SM)
      Remove the seat lock by removing the rubber strap and the bolt holding the locking mechanism down.

     Remove the 4 bolts and washers that attach the grab rail.

NOTE: Torque for reassembly. I used the 22 NM (16 ft-lbs)from the
standard torque value chart.

- Release the seat lock cable from the groove & remove the rear grab rail.

 III. Disconnect and remove the rear cowl (pg 2-8, '05 & '03 SM)

- Remove the 4 screws, 2 socket bolts & 2 trim clips from the cowl

NOTE: I have in my notes that I did not see or work with the "2 socket
 bolts" and that the cowl came off just fine.

 - Remove the rear cowl and disconnect the rear turn signal 2 pin connectors &
tail/brake light 3 pin connectors <Honda wording>.

NOTE: I chose to just unscrew the bulb holders from the cowling
instead. I then wrapped and taped bubble wrap around the bulbs to protect them.

 - Disconnect white plug on the seat rail near the ECU

- Release the band that secures the ABS control unit and ECM. Tape the whole mess to the back of the seat rail.

NOTE: Not totally sure this step didn't come after step 6a. My notes are unclear on this.

NOTE 2: The scissors jack in the above picture above was NOT touching the axle as I did not want to bend it. It was about 1/2" away
from the axle and was there just in case something were to happen to cause the rear end to tip down. Very unlikely but thought I'd be cautious.

5a. Remove the relays & fuse boxes from the tabs on the rear fender (pg 2-9, '05 & '03 SM & pg. 1-45 '05 SM)

NOTE 1: I put tape on the top of each relay and numbered them. These numbers were then recorded on a copy of the relay cluster
found on pg. 1-45 of the '05 SM & pg. 1-42 in the '03 SM.

NOTE 2: I have in my notes that there are release tabs on the fuse boxes.

6a. Remove the saddlebag holders. (diagram pg 2-9 '05 & '03 SM)

NOTE: Torque for reassembly of these saddle bag holder bolts is 26 NM <20 ft-lbs> (pg 1-15, '05 & '03 SM,
under "Frame Body Panels/Exhaust System)

 7a. Remove the remaining bolts from the rear fender & pull the fender out
(diagram, pg 2-9 '05 & '03SM). See notes below before proceeding.

NOTE 1: There is a bolt to take of off near the relay shelf (see silver bolt, bottom right in the picture in step 5a.). I think
there might have been one on the right side (didn't take enough pictures or notes!!).

NOTE 2: There are all kinds of things in the way when trying to pull the fender out the rear of the bike. I had to back off the
lower seat rail socket bolts (pg 2-23 '05 SM & 2-20 '03 SM) until the ends were flush with the frame. These are the
bolts that your Bydawg tip-over bars attach near the passenger foot pegs. I also had to loosen the bolt that goes to the
remote shock adjustment bracket where it attaches to the frame (pg 2-22 '05 SM & 2-19 '03 SM).

NOTE 3: At this point you've got quite a gaggle of relays and wires hanging after they were removed from the rear
fender in step 5a. These could get in your way when you try to pull the fender back and/or tank out. I used a
bungee cord and wrapped the whole mess up into a bundle and pulled it out of the way. Unsure I if I
did this before the fender removal or before the tank removal. (see pic below)

NOTE 4: I had to let the rear brake caliper hang free before the fender would come out.

NOTE 5: Pulling the rear fender out requires that the fender be squeezed and jiggled around quite a bit to get it out.

B. Disconnect the green, side stand switch 2-pin connector and the black fuel pump just underneath the upper seat rail near the front tank. The blue connector also located in this area should already be disconnected from having removed the upper tank.

C. Disconnect the shock adjuster bracket from the seat rail (pg 2-22 '05 SM & 2-19 '03 SM).

D. Remove the starter relay switch from the seat rail (pg 2-22 '05 SM & 2-20 '03 SM).
This relay is rearward of the battery compartment.

E. Remove the bolts and the rear ABS modulator <Honda's wording> (pg 2-22 '05 SM & 2-20 '03 SM).
*** See note below before proceeding ***

***NOTE: This step is the only place where I almost got into trouble. I took the above (step 7) to mean to disconnect the modulator from the bracket then remove the ABS modulator from the bike. This would have entailed disconnecting the four brake lines that feed into it. Made sense because when the modulator was separated from its bracket, it was suspended at the end of long, small diameter, metal brake fluid pipes. It looked like the weight of the modulator could cause the pipes to bend.


I disconnected one of the lines then went to remove a second. I did not have a set of
flare nut wrenches so I just used an open end 10mm wrench. When I tried to
disconnect that second line, I managed to round part of the nut. It was like someone
put it on with an impact wrench! I looked at the SM and it turns out these nuts are
torqued down to 34 NM! No wonder I was having such a difficult time.

At this point, still not knowing that I had misinterpreted the instructions, I said to
heck with it, there's no way I'm going to be able to remove those lines so I decided to
just leave them connected and see how it went.

When I went to reconnect the one flare nut I managed to remove, I encountered
great difficulty because the long, finely threaded connector wanted to cross thread.
Hard to describe but I couldn't get the modulator in the right position because the
other 3 lines kept the modulator in a slightly off kilter position. After many
attempts, I finally got it back on and breathed a huge sigh of relief.

To prevent damage to the metal brake lines, I made a cardboard support for the
modulator which can be seen in this picture:

NOTE: Torque for ABS Modulator mounting bolts for reassembly = 12 NM <9 ftlbs>. (pg 1-12 '05 SM)

 F. Remove the 4 lower fuel tank mounting bolts & washers (p 2-22 '05 SM & 2-20 '03 SM)

      No pictures but you can see them in the SM pictures at the pages noted above. The  location of these bolts are unmistakable at this point.

NOTE: for reassembly, the four tank mounting bolts are torqued at 12 NM  <9 ft-lbs>. (p 1-12 '05 SM)

 G. Remove the seat rail lower mounting socket bolts (pg 2-23 '05 SM & 2-20 '03 SM). These are the bolts that the affix the Bydawg tip-over bars if you have them.

NOTE: for reassembly, the bolts are torqued to 42 NM <31 ft-lbs>.

H. Remove the upper mounting nuts, plates & bolts then remove the seat rail
<Honda's wording> (p 2-23 '05 SM & 2-20 '03 SM). See pics in the SM.

NOTE 1: I did NOT completely remove the seat rail as there is no need to do this
AND there were still things attached. What I did do was snip just the harness zip
ties near the lower tank
(see pic below) so that I could just raise the rail out of the
way to enable to tank to slide back.

I also snipped the white zip tie seen in the photo. It secures the wire that plugs into
the OEM, auxiliary electrical socket mounted near the right fairing pocket. Take
note of how it runs if you have this wire.

NOTE 2: for reassembly, the upper rail flange bolt is torqued to 39 NM (29 ft-lbs).
(pg 2-23 '05 SM)

4. Remove the lower fuel tank

 A. Be sure that the fuel pump electrical connector is disconnected as well as all hoses & lines.

 B. Lift the seat rail up and slightly back, then slide the lower fuel tank out the back. You will have to jiggle it a bit where it
connects to the seat rail but it'll come out.

... out she comes:


ST1100 Archive of Wisdom / Re: Carb Removal and Rebuild ( ST1100 ) *
« Last post by KoTAOW on May 27, 2015, 08:24:02 AM »
Carb Removal and Rebuild ( ST1100 )

ST1100 Carb Part Numbers

I always use my local dealer for parts. Ive been with them for 30 years and they give me wholesale pricing. However, most dont have that luxury and use online sources such as Partzilla, Revzilla, Ron Ayres, etc.


Quantity 4 - 16011-MAJ-R00 Float Valve Set $41 each

Quantity 4 - 16010-MAJ-D00 Float / Carb Gasket Set $24 each

Quantity 4 16211-MT3-000 Insulator / Boot $9 each

Quantity 1 17211-MT3-000 OEM Honda Air Filter $38

Quantity 1 17253-KT8-000 Sub- Air Filter $3

Quantity 1 16900-MG8-003 OEM Honda Fuel Filter $12


You may also choose to upgrade the slow speed / pilot jets to #40. If California or ABS the main jets also.


QTY 4 #424-21 size 40 $7 each

QTY 4 #9901-393 size 128 $7 each

QTY 1 #009-396 needle shim $8 for a package


These can be purchased at in Oregon. 503-873-8992. These are genuine factory Keihin parts.


Adds up quickly! Potentially a $350 rebuild in parts alone. But, better than paying a dealer or bike shop! I hope this helps and drop me a line if you need any more help.


Thank You again for your contribution Adam Frymoyer, STOC #949
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